"Placetes" in Barcelona

I'm not sure if that's a word, but Barcelona is full of them - little squares hidden amid the alleys and buildings of the city's older districts. Often lined with bars and restaurants, each one offers something distinct, whether it be a lively atmosphere or a feeling of being transported in time, making them the perfect place to meet friends for drinks and tapas now that spring is here. The problem is, there are so many of these squares littered throughout the city, that it's impossible to name them all but here are a few of my favorites.

Plaça de Sant Pere. Located in the upper El Born, where Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt and Carrer de Sant Pere Mitja meet, it's sided by a few bars, a La Caixa and a small medieval church, which apparently doesn't exist on any map. Probably the least crowded of the ones on the list, I'll never forget sitting outside listening to the music of a string quartet coming from inside the centuries old stone walls of the church while tucking into some patatas bravas at a terrace outside.

Plaça del Sortidor in Poble Sec offers a mix of bars and restaurants amid the chaos that is Spanish streets. Sitting at one of the tables that lines the inside perimeter of the square, you can see kids kicking a football around, sometimes chased by a small dog. A honk of a horn and you'll watch as a delivery truck squeezes through the narrow street separating the tables from the bars, producing a shout from the kid behind on the scooter to hurry up. Then, like everyone else who has been observing, you'll return to the conversation you were having with friends about what to do that night as someone in an overlooking apartment hammers away to Queen playing on the stereo.

Plaça del Sol speaks to Barcelona's Bohemian side. Surrounded by bars and restaurants, it's in the heart of Gracia, which had been its own village for much of its history and still maintains a bit of an independence streak. One of the few squares that's popular throughout the year, the crowd, like the neighborhood itself, tends to veer to the more artistic and relaxed compared to the elegance of L'Eixample district that rests below.

Plaça del Rei. Tucked behind the main Cathedral in el Barrio Gotico is a square that can either be bustling with a concert or as quiet as it was centuries ago. Unlike most found throughout the city, it has only one bar, L'Antiquari, which is more like a stone tavern with a basement. Sitting outside at its terrace, looking at the engravings on the stone walls, it's difficult not to be impressed by the sense of history that surrounds you.

Plaça de Vicenç Martorell. Just off Carrer Tallers is a small square that surprisingly also has some greenery in the form of a patch of grass and a playground. Perhaps that's why under the arcade are the tables to some of Barcelona's better fruit, vegetable and sandwich bars. A great place when you need a break from the crowds of Las Ramblas just two blocks away.

Like I said, Barcelona is full of these little squares or placetes. It's one of the reasons, I think, it's such a fun city to get lost in, so feel free to add to the list and see how many the really are. Posted by Jeremy Holland
Author of "...From Barcelona - Stories Behind the City"

Teaching English... a huge kick!

I made two promises the day I left school. That I would never set foot in the wretched place again, and that no way would I ever become a teacher.

The first I kept, managing not to join those web-sites that put me in touch with the person who I sat next to in double Chemistry. The second, well, I kept it for a few years, despite being told I'd make a good teacher - you know the kind of thing: loves language, explains things well, good with words, patient, looks good in suede shoes and a cord jacket.

And so I fell into EFL in London at the end of the 80s as it seemed an easy way to make a bit of extra cash (in hand) and meet people from all over the planet. But it was never going to be anything but a short-term thing. More than 20 years ago now. Just as living in Barcelona was short-term. Getting on for 19.

So, why do I still do it? Why do I still get up early and catch public transport across the city? Why do I still get a huge kick from the whole process? Why do I still go from riches to rags, from the boon of spring to the drought of summer?

Because it still is a huge kick. It's a kick seeing the expression on a student's face when they finally "get" (and, more importantly, can use) a piece of language that was giving them problems. It's a kick working on a presentation that a student has to give the following day or week in head-office, and seeing the look of confidence come over their face, that it's not going to be the drama they thought it was. It's a kick when they tell me the presentation went well. It's a kick hearing from them that they made a tricky phone call in English, understood it more or less, and got what they wanted. It's a kick adapting my style to different people and different technologies.

These are the tangible moments, the ones that any teacher would mention probably. But there are other things to mention: as a business English teacher you get an insight into many different types of business, from tiny companies that operate out of a back room, to multi-nationals. I've worked with advertisers, publishers, genome researchers, security staff in airports, lawyers, engineers, opera-house managers, bakers, architects, clothes designers, actors and bull-fighters (well, not the last one). I've worked with secretaries and salespeople, directors and doctors.

And have picked up from them all notions of their own fields. I'm not saying I could run an opera-house or operate on anyone, but I know something about all of these. And there can be few jobs that give you that kind of wide-ranging contact.

I've seen my students on good days and bad, when they were celebrating getting a new contract or worrying about their next pay-cheque. And all of this has given me insight into the human mind that I doubt a psychology degree would have done. If we can understand other people well, we can understand ourselves better.

There are also other perks, I've had access to the VIP areas of an airport and visited the cockpit of a plane, I've more or less lived in a 5-star hotel for a week on an intensive course, I've received books and clothes and pens and bags and been wined and dined. Which is just as well, as we know we're not in this for the money.

But we all know that there are different kinds of wealth, and living on the shores of the Med since 1990, and really feeling that my work can make a difference, and getting to know hundreds of people, has made me feel far richer than had I stayed in London and caught the Northern Line every day to "the office".

That's why I'll be getting out of bed on Monday morning with, if not a smile on my face, something not far off.

By Nick Rawlinson

First day in Barcelona - Part II!

Well, Marcelo – you had a very different start to me. I arrived 9am yesterday morning… I didn’t lose any luggage… though I was quite tempted to abandon one of them on route to the hotel! Fortunately a couple of Spanish chaps took pity on me when it came to facing yet more stairs (more esaclators PLEEEEASE…. And why aren’t exits marked by letters? E.g. exit A/B/C/D? Yesterday I spent wandering (staying in Ramblas area): lots to see, from the local market …. Mmmmm all that REAL cheese…. to human and not-human statues. Beautiful city and great place to sit with a coffee (or Sangria) and people watch. Very trusting folk, too- I sat outside, across the street from the café and they didn’t charge me until I left! Managed to stay awake til around 10:30pm and up for breakfast at 8… fresh UNSWEETENED bread – a treat! Like Marcelo, I didn’t buy a map initially (well, not until today after I miraculously found my way back from Oxford TEFL – I decided to walk back and get in some scenery – and basically worked on instincts and the little teeny weeny maps that you find on the odd lampost) but I decided that it probably was a good idea to get one – my advice: go to the tourist information centre – I got my map for 1 euro, as opposed to the 4-10 euros that newsstands and bookshops are asking. Biggest blonde moment so far? Missing my stop on the metro and having to go across to the other platform to double back on myself … because you have to push the button if you want the train doors to open! (BTW Getting a SIM for my phone was simple, took a few minutes, so maybe it helps if you already have an unlocked phone. I probably haven’t got the best deal on tariffs, but it’s more just for having a way to contact people if necessary, but, bizarrely enough, the cheapest rates are to CHINA!!!) So, that’s the beginning… I guess I best start reminding myself that I am not actually here on holiday and hit the books… (for a little while, at least, before I go and meet Marcelo for café and see what old Gaudi got up to in the city).

By Georgina Middleton - Trinity Diploma course, May 2009.

First day in Barcelona - Part I!

The trip was loooooong but uneventful. Barcelona is a big, beautiful city! First thing I did when I arrived on Monday was to mourn the loss of one of my 2 bags... the one with books. ALL the books, notes, drafts, etc. I took the train to my hostel, went straight to bed, slept all afternoon, woke up at 3 am (9 pm MY time) hungry as an orphan wolf. With nothing open at that time I decided to attack some vending machines with horrible horrible dry snacks. Tuesday morning I woke up full of life and hungry as hell, again. Had some breakfast, and headed right outside to buy me a mobile phone and see what happened to my bag and books. Daredevil as I am, I decided not to buy a map and just wander around until I find a mobile shop. It was a great experience, Barcelona is full of nooks and cranes with buildings, houses, streets, people of different shape and color. I even found a 20-story tall, multi-colored, glimmering dildo while walking around. After browsing a bit, I finally got me a phone, bought the sim card and waited the 30 minutes they told me to in order to have the line activated. 4 hours later I still had no line. Their system was saturated or something. (It's funny how these "helplines" people are similar worldwide, they have a way of saying things as if is not theirs, but your fault your purchase is not working, ha!). Oh well... tired and hungry (again), decided to walk to the big dildo again and catch a movie to rest my feet and my nerves... XMen Origins: Wolverine (Lobezno!).. nice movie for hardcore fans like me. While walking back to the hostel I kinda wanted to try the "bicing" system, but when I observed the bicycles closer, I noticed the wheels are much smaller than regular bikes, so that means an awful MME/Kms (More Muscle Effort per Kilometers). Taking a second glance at those bikes, I thought "nah, I'm not fit for it" (pun intended). Wednesday morning the people from the airport showed at the hostel with a note saying that I have to go back to the airport to get my bag back. Why didn't they bring it with them? No idea. As Obelix would say "These Catalá are mad". I didn't get the note until late afternoon that Wednesday because I spent the whole day walking around trying to remember WHERE I got the sim card from, and yell at them until I get my line working. I have to admit I'm like an oversized crow, I'm easily distracted by shiny objects. And while walking around the city everything is new and shiny, so I get distracted easily. So you can't blame me for not remembering where I got the sim card from, though. Anyway, I ended up in "La Sagrada Familia", breathtaking, beautiful structure! I ate at a KFC right across La Sagrada Familia just so I can say that I ate the holyest chicken in town. ("holyest"?) So it's Thursday morning. My phone is finally working, I got my computer running thanks to an "universal plug adaptor" I bought a couple blocks from here, I bought a city guide and I finally got my bag and books smeared with a thin layer of shampoo (the bottle exploded somewhere in the Atlantic ocean). The weather is great, my feet aren't hurting much anymore and I have some food in the hostel fridge for my "3 am dinner". Life is good.

By Marcelo Ramirez - Trinity Diploma course, May 2009.

Springtime in Barcelona

Spring has to be my absolutely favourite time of year in Barcelona. It's a time when everyone starts to emerge from the few short months of winter hibernation and life starts to move outside once again for the rest of the year. What makes such a difference living here is the brilliant blue sky overhead, there's not a single cloud today, in fact it's been like that all week and will be for the foreseeable future! People start to open their windows letting the warm sunlight in along with the smell of the orange blossom and move out onto their balconies to tend to their newly sprouting flower pots. The palm trees lining the large avenues are filled with the exotic squawks of the bright green parakeets, which have found a home in the city, as they swoop from tree to tree.

In the spring time the beach is always at its most inviting, the sea is clear and laps gently against the sand to the calm rhythm of the chill out music floating out from the beach bars or "Xiringuitos" which are beginning to unpack and set up for the summer season. The beach is still pretty empty at this time of year so there's plenty of room to spread out and relax.

Back in town the multitudes of cafés and bars are setting up their terraces outside and locals and visitors alike enjoy reading the newspaper while they drink their "café con leche" (white coffee) or chatting to friends over a "clara" (beer mixed with lemonade). If you look around you find that you're not the only one stretching out, cat-like, towards the warm sun, adjusting your chair and tilting your head back as you soak up the first warm rays of the spring sun.

As the evenings start to get lighter and lighter and the weather warms up, you can leave your jacket at home, stay for another drink or have dinner out on the terrace. Before the summer and its many open air festivals begin, you'll feel more like one of the locals, one of the lucky few who get to appreciate the stillness of the early evening air and take those first few tentative steps back towards life outdoors. What more can I say? Barcelona in springtime is just, well... magical!

by Jennifer Goodman

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Practising Spanish in Barcelona

Funny how even the dullest of household tasks can be transformed into an amazing experience in this city. Back in the UK, hanging clothes out to dry was probably my most hated chore. Now (at the risk of sounding really sad!) I love it! It's the perfect opportunity to head up to the roof terrace and take in the stunning view of Barcelona. From Tibidabo on the hill, which stands out like a fairytale palace down to the twin towers at the beach.

While hanging out the last few items one of my neighbours arrived so we started chatting. As I've been here for a while I like to try to begin in Catalan. However, it soon proved to be a VERY short conversation! As soon as he saw me struggling, he instantly converted to Castillano (to my relief!) and continued to gossip animatedly about one of the other neighbours. At this point, it's probably time to dispell a myth I've heard from foreigners living outside Catalunya, that 'you'll never be able to practise 'real' Spanish in Barcelona because everyone speaks Catalan'. Wrong! The local people will effortlessly switch between the 2 languages making it very easy for foreigners to practise either Castillian or Catalan. The fact you make an effort in one of the 2 official local languages, it will be very much appreciated!

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Christmas shopping in Barcelona

Just a few days to go and I still needed to finish off my Christmas shopping. What better place to do it but Barcelona! We are really spoilt for choice here.

I started off in the Born area which is great for boutiques if you want something a bit special rather than going for the usual high street chain stores. It's also the perfect excuse to stop at my favourite wine bar in front of the Santa Maria del Mar church and do some people watching!

Just across the road, near the Cathedral is the Santa Lluisa market. It specialises in hand crafted goods as well as selling typical Christmas decorations. If you are only going to buy 1 souvenir this time of year it has to be a 'Caga Tio' (see picture). It's a hollowed out log which gets hit with a stick to 'pass' the presents to the children……still puts a smile on my face!! I love the Catalan sense of humour!

I then wandered up the Portal de Angel which is probably the largest pedestrian shopping area in town and managed to get most of the presents I needed. Zara for my mum and sister, El Corte Ingles for just about everyone else in the family. It's a department store that sells everything you could ever need. It's even got a well stocked supermarket which is great when you are missing those home comforts....curry powder...salad cream....

It was now time for a quick snack so I headed to another favourite haunt 'Ciudad Condal'. Fantastic tapas at reasonable prices - check out the 'montadito de solomillo' if you like tender steak!! It's also a good place if you are vegetarian as they have a huge slection of non meaty snacks. http://www.bcnrestaurantes.com/barcelona.asp?restaurante=ciudad-condal

After a few tapas washed down with a couple of glasses of wine we finished the evening off with a film. There are so many original version cinemas to choose from spread around town but we headed to Verdi up in the trendy area of Gracia. http://www.barcelonaconnect.com/showlevel1.asp?pid=123

The perfect end to a perfect day in this beautiful city!

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Barcelona Blog Summer Case 2008

Normally I am not a big fan of festivals. Camping in the rain and up to your knees in mud, just to stand half a mile away from some group that you are vaguely into. Okay, this is a bit cynical but you get the gist. My feelings towards festivals were changed this summer when I, under some duress, accepted some tickets to the Summer Case festival held in the Forum in Barcelona.

We whizzed down there on our moped in the early evening sun- a good start- no queuing for hours to park a car, or miles to walk from the bus stop. Then no queues to get in either- it all seemed too good to be true. After getting our tickets to get our beer- nice and cold in a smart cup you could attach to your belt (very environmentally friendly) we headed for the first band- The Kooks, all 10 metres away from the beer stand. It was getting better by the minute. The Kooks were great. It was really atmospheric watching them in the afternoon sunshine. After getting the second beer we headed to the second stage, all of a two minute walk away, and saw The Stranglers. Without the singer it wasn't quite the same so we decided to get nostalgic and wandered back to see The Breeders. They were good and took me back to my university days immediately. Then for the highlight of the evening- The Kings of Leon. We waited around to ensure we got a good view and they came on just as it got dark. They were fantastic. I had seen them in a small venue in Barcelona three years earlier and was worried it would be too impersonal in a festival but they rose to the occasion and I wasn't disappointed.

To round the evening off we went to see the Sex Pistols. Unfortunately this was a disappointment, but easy to remedy. The Ravonettes were just starting their set on the Converse stage. Although I am not a big fan they were a huge improvement on the Sex Pistols! Thinking it was best to quit while we were ahead, we headed home on our moped- back in the comfort of my bed in about twenty minutes, leaving the rest of the festival goers to dance the night away. A great Barcelona experience and I can't wait to go again next year!

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A day in the life of an English teacher in Barcelona

Fancy working a 4 day week!?! Leaving you a 3 day weekend to enjoy and explore this lively and dynamic city! Well, as a Trinity TESOL Certificate qualified teacher this could be you!

Barcelona is a vibrant city all year round with glorious beaches for the summer months and the mountains for skiing and walking. As a teacher with full time hours (20-25) you should be able to afford a decent standard of living. Eating and drinking out is accessible. Rent is quite high but flat shares are the norm which can help keep costs down (300 - 350 euros per month) and can be a great way to immerse yourself in local life.

In your first years you will probably teach a mixture of general English to adults and children and some business English. This is a nice introduction to teaching as it makes your working day varied. To complement these classes you could find some private students by advertising near schools, universities, libraries etc. Some of your classes will be given in a language school, some in-company and your students' homes. You will probably have some travelling from class to class but will soon discover that Barcelona is a fairly small and beautiful city so you may be able to walk taking in the amazing architecture. If not invest in a bike and not only will you beat the traffic you will get fit too! If you need to take public transport you're in a great city - buses, metros, trains nearly always run on time and you can use this journey time for lesson planning.

You may find you are working early mornings, lunch times and evenings with time off between classes. At first it may take some getting used to these split shifts but with some time management you will see the benefits of being able to do your shopping when no-one else is around, having the swimming pool to yourself or maybe getting to the cinema at cheaper times! Barcelona is a hugely popular destination for English teaching. There are vast numbers of schools who hire both EU and non-EU citizens. As a non-EU citizen it's unlikely a school will process your papers for you due to the length of time this takes. However, based on our experience at Oxford Tefl you should with our help and your persistence find employment usually on a cash in hand basis. It's a fantastic city with a magical charm.

I arrived in January 2001 planning to stay for 9 months and am still here!!!!!

By Anna Stubbs